It has been a full year, this month, since our Kickstarter
fundraiser was successful. We were able to complete our testing goals on two
fabric styles, with a few yards to spare. Over the past few months we have made
patterns and prototypes, some of which worked, and some of which resulted in
humorous references to muppets and Sesame Street. Through trial and error, we have solidified three hat
patterns, and a fine glove pattern, all drawn out by hand, in several sizes,
the old fashioned way.
It took some time to locate an American grown and processed
cotton, with no synthetic dyes, fine enough to be a lining for our hats. Our
buttons were made to order by a local craftsman, using reclaimed, Vermont grown
wood. That took time as well.
Slowly, enough items were finished to document and share with the world.
I
enjoyed capturing our work with photos, as our first two models had fun
striking poses against the Burlington architecture. I still have two more hats to finish and photograph, and we
will also have another pair of gloves, before we formally announce our presence
to the world.
As we keep detailed notes on materials, time and processes
used, the real cost of producing these items, from the fiber in the fields
through to the finished garment, makes itself evident. In Vermont, we do not
have the kind of poorly paid labor pools that are available in the larger
cities of America, and of course we do not have the vast numbers of forced
laborers, or servile casts that some foreign textile businesses rely on. Hence,
our prices will seem, to some, to be on the high end. The other side of the
price is our happy conscience, knowing that every sale goes to support small
businesses and expert craftspeople in our community. The creation of Winter
Moose fashion protects the environment from toxic dyes, and supports healthy
people by avoiding all synthetic insecticides and preservatives.
Something I have been pondering is the source of power used to create a modern, sustainable fabric. What energy are we using to power the looms, rollers, teasers, stretchers etc. in a mechanized facility? It is true that giant looms have recently returned to the USA - weaving cotton in the South and wool in the North. When these industries thrived here, in the past, economically, water was the main power source. Though the power source was free, the human price was great at the mills. Child labor, injuries, long hours, toxic dyes polluting rivers, health issues from bad air quality, etc. were common. Growing an industry in a way that keeps both environmental and cultural sustainability at the heart while succeeding economically is our challenge. Will we be bringing the water wheels back?
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In the fall, I took this picture of the old Winooski Woolen Mill that used water as it's power source. This mill is close to my home, but similar buildings dot the landscape of New England. |
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The vast majority of weavers in Vermont use old wooden looms, now. The same kind of weaving that was prevalent in the sixteenth century. |
We have much to ponder as we move forward.